廣播、電視和網路上的廣告,把納豆的功效說得神乎其神,總結出了十幾項納豆的神奇功效:強效溶解血栓;防止骨質疏松;抗菌、消毒;預防高血壓;抑制高血糖;防止腦細胞老化;降低膽固醇;調整腸道功能;抑制腫瘤作用;改善消化系統;抑制O-157大腸桿菌;提高免疫功能;美容肌膚……
那麼,納豆真有這麼神奇嗎?它是治百病的妙藥,還是普通食品呢?
■在日本納豆如同中國的腐乳
納豆是來自日本的一種傳統食品,在日本已經有一千多年的歷史,納豆最初是利用稻草上自然的枯草菌發酵,在寺廟的廚房制造,因為寺廟的廚房叫“納所”,所以叫納豆。納豆當時是素食的僧侶們重要的營養來源,也是日本皇室、僧侶、貴族、武士經常食用的食物。
納豆是以黃豆為原料,以納豆枯草芽苞桿菌發酵而成的一種食品。納豆對於日本人,猶如腐乳對中國人。同樣是豆制品,同樣散發強烈味道,同樣需要微生物的發酵,同樣是有人很喜歡,有人碰都不碰。納豆在日本很流行,千年來,日本家庭從上到下口耳相傳納豆的好處:不會感染肺結核、喝酒時吃它就不醉、對高血壓和心臟病有好處、能治痢疾等。
1905年日本北海道大學的池村博士,從土壤中分離出納豆菌種。試驗後發現其品質大大優於用稻草上的菌種生產的納豆生產,擺脫了使用稻草上的菌種生產納豆的歷史。以後,隨著專用納豆菌種的使用,納豆的品質越來越好,納豆的功效和保健作用才越來越顯現,從此開創了納豆從營養食品到具有藥效和功效的微生態、健康食品的新時代。上個世紀80年代,納豆熱潮席卷全球。1986年,日本生理學教授發現納豆中含有天然的血栓溶解酵素,並命名為納豆激酶。日本人還成立了“日本納豆激酶協會”,並給納豆激酶的含量規定了相應標準。
■日本人因為吃納豆就長壽嗎
有人說,日本人之所以長壽,跟他們喜歡吃納豆有密切關系。倘若果真如此,那全世界的衛生組織不用乾別的了,就在全球推廣納豆,便可以預防很多疾病,延長人類的壽命了。
日本人之所以長壽,是很多因素綜合作用的結果,絕非簡單的吃了某種神奇食物所致。首先,日本人注重營養立法,有強烈的營養意識。二戰結束後,日本雖然經濟狀況非常糟糕,卻將全民營養改善工作當成一項國策,放在了首位。繼1947年頒布《營養師法》之後,1952年又出台了《營養改善法》,1954年出台《學生午餐法》,2003年又頒布了《健康增進法》。目前,日本涉及營養議題的法律法規就有10多部,其中以《營養改善法》和《健康增進法》最為基本。營養法規幾乎覆寫了日本全社會,比如法律規定,凡能容納100人就餐的食堂必須配備至少1名營養師。
其次,日本人非常注重營養教育。1947年頒布的《營養師法》規定,在學校、醫療、餐飲等機構要設立營養師崗位,營養師上任需有政府相關部門頒發的資格證書。于是,營養師這一職業便在日本蓬勃發展起來。到2002年,全日本營養師訓練機構已多達258個。對營養師訓練則涉及營養學基礎、醫療臨床、營養咨詢、偵測、營養評價等多個方面,比如在食物的品種和烹飪方法方面,指導公眾盡可能保全其營養。這些營養師廣泛分布在醫院、學校、食堂、賓館、食品加工企業和政府部門等。
日本婦女以全職家庭主婦居多,她們大多會在婚前參加家政學校,學習專業的食物料理制作方法,以及膳食搭配的營養學知識,所以,日本的家庭主婦非常重視家人的飲食,注重葷素搭配,膳食平衡。很多中國人還常常把冰箱當成儲藏箱,十天半月也不去管它,想起來才拿出來食用。然而日本的許多家庭主婦仍不辭勞苦地每天上菜場購買新鮮蔬菜和海產品。因為她們知道,冰箱只能保鮮,而這種保鮮程序中,營養會大量流失,所以她們寧可辛苦一點,每天買新鮮食材,這樣才能保證營養。
再次,日本人喜歡吃豆制品和新鮮水產品。這幾年,隨著豆制品功能性的陸續發現,在各種媒體中介紹大豆的功能性的節目非常多,所以普通市民也對大豆的功能性有所了解,更促進了這類傳統食品的銷售。即使近年來日本人的飲食內容已產生變化,但大豆及豆制品的食用量很穩定,每人每天約攝取70克。與大豆有關的多篇研究,均以美日兩國為對照,突顯“多吃肉”和“多吃大豆”族群之間的健康差異,特別是心血管疾病、癌症(尤其是乳癌、大腸癌。據統計,罹患率約為美國人的十分之一),降低女性更年期症候群的效果更深受注意。
美國人因此稱大豆為“miraclebean(神奇的豆)”,視大豆為東方人長壽的關鍵因素。而納豆是大豆發酵而來的,其營養價值自然也會很高。日本人飲食中的動物性食品,主要是水產品。日本人烹煮魚類的方法也很健康,多為低溫煮熟、清蒸等。此外,日本料理也被稱為“水料理”,而歐美菜則被稱為“油料理”。而日本人的餐桌上,雪白的米飯、碧綠的生菜、紅色的魚片、橘色的胡蘿卜,大多都清爽可口且盡量保持了食物本來的味道,並且不會帶來太多的脂肪。所以說,日本人的長壽,原因是多方面的,絕不是簡單的吃了納豆便獲得了長壽。
■納豆並非靈丹妙藥,要正確看待納豆
納豆作為一種發酵食物,的確有它的優點,例如其中的益生菌、大豆激酶、大豆異黃酮、維生素、礦物質,而且保留了大豆中的絕大多數營養物質,不失為一種營養價值很高的食物。但是,目前的很多宣傳把納豆的功能有些誇大,很多機構將納豆推薦為溶血栓、降血脂、提高免疫力、治腹潟的“靈丹妙藥”,甚至有些消費者認為納豆可以替代藥物,來治療疾病,這是非常不可取的。其實,食物的營養價值再高,也不能替代藥物。即便是用納豆激酶等有效成分提取、加工而成的保健食品,也不能聲稱具有治療功效,這是食品安全法明令禁止的。
對於飲食結構不合理、運動不足的心腦血管高發人群來說,不改變原有的生活方式和飲食結構,妄想靠一種“神奇食物”就把問題都解決,是不現實的。而對於普通人來說,只要按照營養學會的膳食寶塔和膳食指南去飲食,再加上每天6000步以上的運動,即便不吃納豆、納豆保健品,也同樣能夠獲得健康。
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